Vanilla Cream Ale Take 1

It’s been two weeks since my last batch of beer has been bottled and placed for conditioning. I’ve been thinking about what beer to brew next and I’ve finally come up with something.

For a while now I’ve been tinkering with the idea of creating a recipe for a vanilla cream ale. I’ve finally sat down over the past few days coming up with a recipe. I finalized the details this morning and put in the order for my supplies. They should be here on Wednesday. Also on Wednesday, Holly is going to town for a few items since she got paid, and I’m going to have her pick me up some vanilla and honey. If all goes well, I will have a fairly good first draft of my vanilla cream ale.

Recipe thus far (suggestions welcome):

.5 lbs Honey Malt
1 lb Crystal 10L
1 lb Wheat Malt
2 lbs Honey
1.5 lbs Candi-clear
7lbs Alexander’s Pale Malt Extract

2 oz. Hallertauer
1 oz. Goldings (Kent)
3  Vanilla Beans (placed in secondary)

White Labs P53  Abbey Ale

Old Jock Ale

I’ve cracked open the first bottle of the Old Jock Ale that I brewed. This is a clone from Broughton Ales Ltd in Scotland. It’s a dark amber beer with a malt, roasted grains and alcohol aroma. It has a smooth, complex flavor of rich caramel and toasted malt. It’s head is tan and made of large bubbles, although mine isn’t quite as full as I’d like. It is quite a delicious beer sitting at about 6.5% alcohol by volume. I found it to be quite light and easily drinkable. Unfortunately I’ve never had the original Jock Ale made by Broughton Ales, but I image it must be good if the clone I made tastes as good as it does. I highly recommend trying out this recipe.

Old Jock Ale

Old Jock Ale Old Jock Ale

Old Jock Ale

Broughton Ales Ltd., Broughton, Peebleshire, Scotland
published in: Clone Brews: Homebrew Recipes for 150 Commercial Beers by Tess and Mark Szamatulski

Yield: 5 gallons (18.9 L)
OG: 1.070-1.072
FG: 1.017-1.019
IBU: 27
SRM: 25
6.8% alcohol by volume

Crush and stepp in 1 gallon (3.8 L) 150?F (66.5? C) water for 20 minutes:

1 lb. (.45 kg) 55?L British crystal malt
4 oz. (113g) Belgian aromatic malt
2 oz. (57g) roasted barley

Strain the grain water into your brew pot. Sparge the grains with 1/2 gallon (1.9 L) water at 150? F (65.5?C). Add water to the brew pot for 1.5 gallons (5.7 L) total volume. Bring the water to a boil, remove the pot from the stove and add:

6.6 lb. (3kg) light malt syrup
2.5 lb. (1.1 kg) light DME
4 oz. (113 g) Malto-dextrin
1 oz. (28g) East Kent Goldings (5 HBU) (bittering hop)
2/3 (19g) Fuggles @ 4.5% AA (3 HBU) (bittering hop)

Add water until total volume in the brew pot is 2.5 gallons (9 L). Boil for 45 minutes then add:

1/2 oz (14g) Fuggles (flavor hop)
1 tsp. (5ml) Irish moss

Boil for 10 minutes then add:

1/2 oz. (14 g) East Kent Goldings (aroma hop)

Boil for 5 minutes, remove pot from the stove, and cool for 15 minutes. Strain the cooled wort into the primary fermenter and add cold water to obtain 5 gallons (18.9 L). When wort temperature is uner 80?F (26.6?C), pitch your yeast.

1st choice: Wyeast’s 1084 Irish ale yeast
(Ferment at 66-70?F [19-21?C])

2nd choice: Wyeast’s 1028 Scottish ale yeast (This is the yeast I used)
(Ferment at 66-70?F [19-21?C])

Ferment in the primary fermenter 4-5 days or until fermentation slows, then siphon into the secondary fermenter. Bottle when fermentation is complete with:

1 1/4 cup (300 ml) M&F extra-light DME

Best served at 55?F (13 C) in a tankard or pub mug.

Priming Your Beer

We all know that making beer can be a complicated process, or it can be a simple one. It all depends on how involved you want to get. The more involved you get, the more control you can have over the end  results. So every time I whip up a batch of beer, I try to learn something new to help give me more control of the outcome of my beer. This batch my focus was priming and carbonation. Let me share.

Priming is the addition of sugar to fermented beer immediately prior to bottling or kegging. The added sugar ferments in the sealed package, creating the carbonation for the beer. Sounds simple, right?

Most of the recipes I started with would tell me to add 3/4 cup priming sugar per 5 gallons at bottling time. Not surprisingly, the results always varied. Other recipes would say to add 1 1/2 tbsp  priming sugar per bottle. Again, results varied. These methods are based on a volume per volume basis. Measuring this way can lead to different results. When you consider that not all sugars are not manufactured the same way or  that 3/4 cup of packed sugar is not the same as 3/4 cup lose sugar, you’ll realize that measuring this way is not ideal. What makes more sense is to measure your sugar on a basis of weight sugar per volume beer. So now that we’re going to measure our sugar by weight, we need to know how much sugar to use.

        -------------------------------------------
        Beer style                      Volumes CO2
        -------------------------------------------
        British-style ales              1.5 - 2.0
        Porter, stout                   1.7 - 2.3
        Belgian ales                    1.9 - 2.4
        European lagers                 2.2 - 2.7
        American ales & lagers          2.2 - 2.7
        Lambic                          2.4 - 2.8
        Fruit lambic                    3.0 - 4.5
        German wheat beer               3.3 - 4.5
        -------------------------------------------

Above is a handy guide to carbonation levels in a range of styles.

Before continuing on with measuring sugar, lets talk a little about carbonation. During fermentation, the yeast converts the sugars in the wort into alcohol and carbon dioxide. What this means is that when your beer is done fermenting, it already contains small amount of disolved CO2. How much carbon dioxide is in the beer already is dependent on  the beers temperature during fermentation. The lower the temperature, the more carbon dioxide can be dissolved into the beer. Because we are trying to determine how much sugar to add to acquire our desired CO2 levels, we need to know how much carbonation to add. How much carbonation we need to add is actually the target CO2 level minus the amount of CO2 left in the beer from fermentation. Below is a table of carbonation levels at various temperatures before priming.

Temp      Temp                  |     Temp      Temp
(degC)    (degF)    Vol.CO2     |     (degC)    (degF)   Vol. CO2
------    ------    --------    |     ------    ------   --------
   0        32        1.7       |       12        54       1.12
   2        36        1.6       |       14        57       1.05
   4        40        1.5       |       16        61       0.99
   6        43        1.4       |       18        64       0.93
   8        46        1.3       |       20        68       0.88
  10        50        1.2       |       22        72       0.83

This would be a good point to find out exactly how much sugar it actually takes to produce 1 volume of CO2 per gallon of beer. After all, how can you find out how much sugar to add to your 5 gallons of beer without knowing the conversion rate of sugar to CO2?  A very simplified way of showing that conversion rate is written as follows:

C6H2O6 + yeast = 2CH3CH2OH + 2CO2

Now, you don’t need to know how all that works. Only that it means that yeast will convert one unit of glucose into two units of ethanol and two units of carbon dioxide. So if we want one unit of CO2 we would use 1/2 unit of glucose, or .49 oz glucose per one gallon off beer. So if we wanted to add 1 volume of CO2 to 1 gallons of beer, we would need 1 (vol CO2) x .49 (oz glucose) = .49 oz of glucose. Still following?

So what if we wanted 2 volumes of  CO2 in a gallon of beer? We would need 2 x .49 = .98 ox of glucose. And 3 volumes of CO2? 3 x .49 = 1.47 oz glucose. Are you sensing a pattern?

Let’s think back about what we are doing. We want to know how much sugar to add to our beer to achieve the level of carbonation that we want. We’ve determined what our target CO2 level should be using the handy CO2 level guide above. We know that a certain amount of CO2 dissolves in the beer during fermentation, which we’ll have to subtract from our target CO2 level. We also know that it takes .49 oz of glucose to produce 1 volume of CO2 in one gallon of beer. Using this information and the formula above, we can create a precise formula for finding the amount of sugar/glucose needed to achieve the desired levels of CO2 in your beer.

Using the chart above, find the saturation level for the temperature of your beer. Let’s call that V0. Then choose the CO2 level that corresponds with the style of beer you are making. Let’s call that V.  Now we can subtract the two and add it to the formula from above.

Priming rate (oz/gal) =
(V-V0) x .49

or for the non-oz version

Priming rate (g/L) =
(V-V0) x 3.7

Then all you have to do is multiply that by how many gallons of beer you have. So let’s say we are going to make 5 gallons of Belgian Ale that fermented at 50?F. Our target CO2 volume level will be 2.1 vol (V). From the above table we know that 1.2 vol (V0) of CO2 has  been dissolved in the beer during fermentation. Therefore:

(2.1 – 1.2) x .49 = .441 oz glucose/gallon

Multiply that by our 5 gallons of beer and you get 2.2 oz of glucose that you would need to add to your Belgian ale to get your target CO2 level of 2.1.

Carbonation levels in a beer can tell you quite a bit about a beer. It can also tell you quite a bit about a brewer. The beer style chart at the beginning of this article is a relatively short list. It is also relative. As home brewers, we have the capability to adjust the CO2 levels to appease our own palette. Knowing how to reach the carbonation level that you want for your beer brings you one step closer to making a beer that is truly your own.

What is Märzen?

“Someone asked me if u make your own beer cause they never heard of  Marzen.  Well?”  This is a comment I received on my facebook wall the other day from my mother. While forming a response to the aforementioned comment I realized that even after making my first batch of Märzen, I wasn’t satisfied with my knowledge of the beer. So I fired up my computer, started up my browser, and read as many articles on the subject that I could find.

Märzen

Märzen started its rough beginnings in Bavaria during the 1830’s as the work of Anton Dreher. With England’s advanced barley malting techniques, they were able to produce paler colored beers than those in Bavaria, were dark (Dünkel) beer was prominent. The resulting English pale ales attracted Anton and drove him to develope his own version of this English Ale. He called his new beer Schwechater Lagerbier, after the Vienna suburb home of his brewery. His new beer became very popular and, for a short time, was dubbed Wiener Typ (Vienna style) after his malting process, which produced a reddish caramelized crystal malt.

It wasn’t until 30 years later that Josef Sedlmayr, the son of an apprentice at Dreher’s brewery, brewed a batch of beer in Dreher’s Vienna style that was slightly paler in color. He brewed his beer in March of 1871 and introduced it at the Oktoberfest in 1872. He called the beer Märzen (or Märzenbier), which in German, means “March”.

Oktoberfest is an annual festival that started on October 18th 1810 when Prince Ludwig of Bavaria took the unusual step of celebrating his marriage  to Princes Threse of Saxe-Hildburghausen in a public festival instead of the customary private royal one. Today, the 16 day festival is held in Munich, Germany and starts in late September, running into early October.

So how how does Märzen and Oktoberfest fit together? As mention earlier, Josef Sedlmayr brewed his beer in March. At the time, this was the latest that one could brew beer. Due to the lack of mechanized refrigeration, the heat of the summer months would wreak havoc on the fermentation process causing bacterial infections and spoiled beer. Therefore brewers worked overtime in March, brewing more alcoholic and often well-hopped beer, to assure ample supply of beer during the summer. These beers were Lagered (stored) in caves or stone cellars, sometimes built into the sides of mountains or hills, throughout the summer, awaiting their debut during the fall festival season.

Weather Josef Sedlmayr intended his Märzen to be debuted at Oktoberfest is not quite sure. None-the-less, the introduction of his beer at Oktoberfest in 1872 resulted in a complete sell-out. His Märzen was priced 3-crowns more than other beer available and yet sold 2 to 1 over any other beer there. Märzen grew ever popular and became the Oktoberfest beer style for the next 100 years.

The original Märzen was described as “dark brown, full-bodied and bitter”. Appearing now in color anywhere from a burnished gold hue to a deep brown with shades of red and orange, the beers are characterized by sweet, almost humid maltiness that’s balanced by a slight bitter note from the hops, though not enough for the beer ever to be considered bitter. It’s alcohol content usually ranges between 5 and 6.2%.

Of course now-a-days, we can control the temperatures of houses, food, cars, buildings, and most importantly, beer. You can find Märzen all year round if you look. So I encourage you, no matter the time of year, to kick back and enjoy the slightly bitter, sweet, malty flavor of a beautiful glass of Märzen.

What to brew next?

I’ve bottled my Märzen on Sunday and it is looking very promising. I did a pre-bottle tasting and it was quite delicious. I now have 49 bottles of beautiful home-brewed Märzen beer. I will be thinking heavily on what to brew next. Anyone with suggestions on what I should try, just give me a holler.